http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VS5ogZxoZ2Y
  

Hi

Would be a great idea to make an orgonite circuit for mains leads just for this and give that away as a plan.

I have a Geopathic one and it was close to 200£ back in the 90's.

M
  

As if enviromental DOR generators weren't good enough, they want to put them in our homes.

I never liked those lamps anyway, they always felt sick for me

Is gifting our light bulbs (griding our home) a good and simple alternative to countering them? Don Bradley emphasise that every eletronic device must have an orgonite near it.
  

I used a device to clean electricity, for music recording scope it did gave measurable results in cleaning the elecricity as the sound card measured a reduction of various db in the background noise hiss.
The cost from brand to brand can range from cheap to expensive esoteric such from the brand kimber cable.
I used the power conditioner from Phonic, a very cost effective model that allows pluggin various device directly into its board.

http://www.phonic.com/en/power-managers/
  

It can't hurt too have too much orgonite around the house  

These lamps are actually bad for many reasons:
first they use mercury for the high frequency excitation to emit light... mercury is bad everyone knows that so these things are a potential hazard lurking in everyone's home now...
Then to make the lighting work as I said they need high frequency, something like 10-20 kHz if I remember, this induces these dirty current spikes back into the mains, because each lamp has it's own ballast
Then what is not known is that these lamps emit UV, they work based on that! the inside mercury excitation emits UV, vacuum UVs and UVC mostly. About vacuum UV, it's called like that because it's mostly absorbed by oxygen, that's what the upper atmosphere does to protect us from UV!
Anyway then these UVs are reabsorbed by the coating inside the fluorescent lamp and transformed into a visible frequency.

Having a source of powerful UVs next to me, even if it should be 100% absorbed (and I yet have to see a test done about that!), it is something that I don't want next to me.

Then there is the color range, an incandescent light is aroung 2700K (somewhat yellowish) where as fluorescent or neons are above, like 3000-4000K which is more blue... Well I don't know if this is bad or not since we never knew what light is the best...

The worst is that plasma TVs are using the same working principles, mercury UV emission..
Anyhow these lamps infuse high frequency spikes back into the mains because of their ballast, they emit UV (inside the lamp) and they contain mercury! Definetly a big safety hazard according to safety regulation rules of any country, yet they are in all shops
  




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"Someday, after we have mastered the winds, the waves, the tides and gravity, we will harness for God the energies of love and then, for the second time in the history of the world, man will have discovered fire!" Pierre Teilhard de Chardin

There is another problem with CFL's.  They draw MUCH more power than the packaging would have you believe.

For a 100 watt equivalent CFL (stated to use 23 watts), which I contend only puts out about as much light as a 60 watt incandescent due to the lousy light spectrum, the actual usage is stated right on the bulb housing.  385milliamps of current.  You basically get charged for current, not voltage as you consume current and the voltage stays 120V.

Well lets see.  Watts = voltage times current.  Voltage is 120V.  Current in amps is 385/1000 = 0.385.

120V * 0.385 sure ain't 23 watts.  Instead, its 46.2 watts - more than DOUBLE what they claim. This is really what the power company charges you for. I'm not kidding!

This occurs pretty much across the board for all CFL's.

How does the manufacturer get away with this?  They state power usage in watts.  For AC this implies a power factor of 1.0 (resistive load).  CFL's have a transformer in them that makes the load inductive.  It skews the voltage and current waveforms which causes the bulb to draw much more power than you are lead to believe but the power meter they use to do the measurement must compensate for the poor power factor of the bulb because watts mean 1.0 power factor.  The manufacturers use this number.  Its a true lie!

Nice scam, huh?

To correctly state bulb power utilization, it should be stated in volt-amps (voltage times current) since this correctly represents the actual power used.  Just like above, that would mean they'd need to state that the bulb uses 46.2 volt-amps.  They choose watts and let the meter compensate and tell the truth to lie.